Featuring the oil of Salvatore Mirisola
A few words about Olive Oil quality in the USA . . . and why Mirisola oil is so special
The laws in Europe are clear, but here, they are not. So . . . CAVAET EMPTOR!!! A lot of inferior olive oil is sold here as Extra Virgin - it would not come close to meeting that standard in Europe. In fact, when Salvatore Mirisola was inquiring about labeling here, the FDA told him "you can label it pretty much as you wish - there is nothing in our law which requires anything."
We label our products with information as would be required in Europe. And then we add some more. We believe the more information, presented in an understandable fashion will help people understand our products - and why they are more costly than the oils on grocery store shelves.
A word about the terms "Extra Virgin" "Virgin" "Olive Oil" and "light olive oil."
The term "Extra Virgin" is the internationally recognized designation for the top grade of food-quality olive oil. Most nations involved in the production of olive oil are parties to an agreement setting certain high standards that all true "extra virgin" oils must meet.
Unfortunately, the U.S. is not a signatory to this agreement, and there are no federal regulations governing the use of the "Extra Virgin" designation in the domestic marketplace. Consequently, the American consumer is offered a huge assortment of so-called "Extra Virgin" oils, many of which most definitely are not.
What is true Extra virgin olive oil? It is the cold-pressed, chemical-free result of the first (and normally only) pressing of the olives, in Europe, "EVOO" is only 0.8 percent acid. The best extra virgin oils are much lower in acid, with the lower quality oils at the top of the limit. Extra Virgin is the finest and fruitiest of the olive oils and is therefore also the most expensive. After extra virgin, olive oils are classified in order of ascending acidity.
Mirisola Oil normally ranges in acidity from 0.25 to 0.4 in acidity - very low!
Virgin olive oil is also first-press oil, with a slightly higher level of acidity of between 0.8 and 3 percent. Products labeled simply olive oil (once called pure olive oil) contain a combination of chemically refined olive oil and virgin or extra virgin oil. The new light olive oil contains the same amount of monounsaturated fat as regular olive oil...and it also has exactly the same number of calories. What the term "light" refers to is that--because of an extremely fine filtration process--this olive oil is lighter in both color and fragrance, and has little of the classic olive-oil flavor. Use it for frying.
Typically, purveyors of bogus "Extra Virgin" will start with a base of cheap, chemically refined oil. To this they will add a small percentage of true "Extra Virgin, " thereby lowering the lesser-quality oil's acid content and improving its taste and body. Often they will also add chlorophyll or another coloring agent to achieve a robust green color that, though mistakenly believed by many to be the hallmark of real extra virgin, is almost never seen in the authentic item. Unadulterated extra virgin oil is, with few exceptions, primarily golden in color. The green hue naturally present in new-pressed oil fades as the oil "knits together" and its sediment settles.
How can a consumer identify bogus extra virgin? Until the U.S. signs the international olive oil agreement, or adopts its own domestic regulations, the task will be a tricky one.
There are certain clues to keep in mind, however:
Does the price seem low? Top quality oil is a handcrafted product and the price will reflect that. A large quantity/low price ratio is almost a guarantee that something is amiss.
Does the oil's color seem right? As mentioned before, deep green oil has often been treated with coloring agents. Mirisola Oil is totally natural in color. Nothing is added.
Does the label indicate that the oil is "estate-grown"? Although this is not an absolute quality guarantee, it is a good indication that the olives used were from a single source. Bogus extra virgins are often blends of various olives from different regions, or even countries, harvested at different times under wildly varying conditions. Salvatore Mirisola's oils are all produced from organic olives from his small 4000-tree estate.
Is the oil harvest-dated? This too is a good indication that the oil comes from the fruit of a single grower. The best oils show an expiration date, as well. Mirisola Oils are all harvest dated, with a clearly identified expiration date.
Is the grower identified? Most growers will not put their name on an inferior product. It's a question of pride.
How does the oil taste? Honest extra virgin olive oil is alive, full of fresh aromas and flavors. It feels light and clean in the mouth... never dull, never greasy. Mirisola Oil is fresh and smooth, with a wonderfully "polyphenols filled" after taste - it explodes the flavors in foods - with less oil than normally would be used.
